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PCT Washington Section K and L

Slow Packing the PCT

ccatte · Jun 6th, 2017

Backpacking

PCT Washington Section K and L

Pacific Crest Trail

Pacific Crest Trail Section K (WA)

Pacific Crest Trail Section L (WA)

Starting Place:

High Bridge Ranger Station

The Northern Cascades is said to be one of the most beautiful sections of the Pacific Crest Trail and it did not disappoint. Craggy peaks, dense forests, and lush valleys provided mile after mile of stunning scenery on our 8 day, 89 mile journey on the northernmost portion of the PCT.

We are three, shall we say older hikers, and this is an account of our journey. We hiked an average of 11+ miles/day. That was plenty for us, but nearly everyone else on the trail was hiking 15-30 miles/day. They were generally young adults, often from foreign countries, and most had done the entire trail from Mexico. These hiking machines constantly passed us, but that was ok. We enjoyed the journey and reached the end as planned. The scenery was as spectacular as advertised and the trip a wonderful experience despite blisters, fatigue, and foul weather.

Most of the PCT in Section L of Washington follows ridge tops that are the boundary line between the Mt. Baker National Forest and the Okanogan National Forest. The trail crosses frequently from one side of the ridge to the other. From Windy Pass north, most of the trail to the Canadian border is in the Pasayten Wilderness.

Getting There

Starting the PCT at High Bridge is not easy. It requires a 55 mile ferry ride across Lake Chelan, Washington to Stehekin. There is a slow boat, the Lady of the Lake II that takes 4 hours, or a fast boat, the Lady Express that takes 2.5 hours. Information about the trip can be found at ladyofthelake.com

In Stehekin a permit to camp overnight in North Cascades National Park can be obtained at the Golden West Visitor Center. Stehekin also has lodging, camping, a restaurant, a post office, and a small general store for last minute items.

The next portion of the trip requires an hour bus ride on the Red Bus Shuttle up the Stehekin Valley to the High Bridge Ranger Station. Information about the bus can be found at http://lodgeatstehekin.com/plan_your_trip/stehekin-activities/ride-the-red-bus/

The PCT can also be accessed at Rainy Pass on Highway 20. This cuts 20 miles from the trip and skips the North Cascades National Park portion of the hike.

Day 1: Sept. 6, 2016

Start and End Point: High Bridge Ranger Station (PCT Mile 2570) to Six Mile Camp (PCT Mile 2581)

Distance: 11 miles

Number of Passes: 0

Approx. Cumulative Elevation Gain: 2773 ft.

Approx. Cumulative Elevation Loss: 1480 ft.

Region: North Cascades National Park

After an hour bus ride from Stehekin, the trail began in North Cascades National Park at the High Bridge Ranger Station, taking off east from the buildings. We climbed through dense evergreen forest, which eventually leveled out well above Bridge Creek. Highlights along this section of trail were lily pad covered Coon Lake and large numbers of tiny toads- so many it was hard to avoid stepping on them. The weather was cool and partly cloudy, typical of the North Cascades. We were expecting fall colors, but things were still mostly green.

We took a long lunch break at huge Bridge Creek Camp. There were many campsites here with picnic tables, outhouses, and even a three-sided shelter (although not very inviting looking). It was tempting to stay in this luxurious camping spot, but our required permit was for Six Mile Camp, another six miles away.

After Bridge Creek Camp, the trail followed an old road for a short distance before turning northeast on to a path. We climbed through huge stands of cedar trees and ponderosa pines. Bridge Creek finally came into view after miles and miles of hearing it. A sturdy bridge crossed the creek just before North Fork Camp and the trail moved to the north side. The creek again disappeared well below the trail, but views of the valley and mountain peaks appeared occasionally when the dense brush and trees receded.

At Maple Creek, hikers can opt to cross on a swinging bridge, but at this time in September the creek was low enough that we could rock hop across and avoid the boulder climb up to the bridge and back down the other side.

A sign pointing downhill to Six Mile Camp led us several hundred yards down to a large camp with a fire pit, bear wire and toilet. Bridge Creek was easily accessible on the edge of camp. We shared this camp with four other hiking groups: a couple from the Netherlands, an older man from Pennsylvania, a young woman from the UK, and three young men from California. All of these people, except the man from Pennsylvania, were thru hikers who had started the trail at the Mexican border. As we started to hang our food on the bear wire, they all insisted that it’s better to keep food in your tent. One explained that he felt the food was safer in the tent with him rather than out and available to mice and other critters. If a mouse got into his food, he said, it would be spoiled, and he would be in serious trouble. They all felt that bears were not a big concern. This was the one and only night we hung our food.

Day 2: Sept. 7, 2016

Start and End Point: Six Mile Camp (PCT Mile 2581) to PCT Mile 2592

Distance: 11 miles

Mountain Passes: 1 (Rainy Pass)

Approx. Elevation Gain: 2858 ft.

Approx. Elevation Loss: 438 ft.

Region: Wenatchee National Forest, Mt. Baker National Forest

It rained in the night, so the hike up to the main trail was very wet due to the shoulder high lush vegetation, but back on the trail, we quickly dried out.

The trail continued without much elevation gain through thick jungle like brush for several miles to a junction with Twisp Pass Trail. From there we climbed north toward Rainy Pass. The vegetation changed from open brushy slopes to evergreen forest as it moved up Bridge Creek. At a crossing of the creek, there was the option of a downed log with a flattened top or wading the ankle deep water. Earlier in the summer, the log is probably the only safe way to cross. The trail continued to climb, then paralleled the highway for a couple of miles, again crossing creeks several times on log bridges. Finally, Rainy Pass (4882 ft.) appeared.

After crossing the highway, the trail followed a road to a large parking lot, trail register, and outhouse at the Rainy Pass Trailhead. From here the character of the trail changed dramatically. Until now, we had been hiking up the Bridge Creek’s brush filled valley bottom through large stands of evergreen trees. Views of the rugged peaks above us were few and far between. The next 70 miles took us up and down exposed high ridge tops, into and out of alpine and subalpine zones, over steep scree slopes, and many passes, some high, some low. Every mile was filled with incredible views.

As the trail entered a dense fir forest, we climbed steadily toward Cutthroat Pass. Crossing the two branches of Porcupine Creek was easy at this time of year, and there was plenty of water to fill water bottles. A steady rain began falling and continued throughout the rest of the day, night, and into the next morning, but there was no wind.

We stopped for the day at a tiny campsite right on the trail at PCT Mile 2592. This site only allowed one tent comfortably, but we were able to squeeze our two tents into the area. It was an uncomfortable spot, but it was more than a mile and another 600 ft. of elevation gain to the next campsite, so we decided to stop. The nearest water was about 1/3 mile up the trail. I do not recommend this campsite! Try to march on to the next, which is much better.

Day 3: Sept. 8, 2016

Start and Stop Point: PCT Mile 2591 to Methow River Camp (PCT Mile 2604)

Distance: 13 miles

Mountain Passes: 3 passes (Cutthroat Pass, Granite Pass, and Methow Pass)

Approx. Elevation Gain: 2500 ft.

Approx. Elevation Loss: 3585 ft.

Region: Okanogan National Forest, Mt. Baker National Forest

Cool weather and broken clouds started the day. Everything was wet, wet, wet. Hiking above our camp, we filled water bottles for the day as it looked like no water would be available for some time. The trail climbed steadily up with views ahead toward Cutthroat Pass and views back across the valley of Rainy Pass. We passed a large campsite at PCT mile 2592 with a small amount but easily accessed water running across the trail. This would have been a much better campsite.

From here the trail switchbacked up to Cutthroat Pass (6837 ft.), our first high mountain pass. Breathtaking views of Cutthroat Lake and peaks to the east greeted us. This was a great place to take a break and enjoy the stunning scenery although it was very exposed and therefore, cold and windy on this blustery day.

The trail from Cutthroat Pass to Granite Pass continued through open terrain with rocky exposed scree slopes. We passed below large rocky cliffs, and the trail fell away steeply on the downhill side. Snow or ice on the trail would make this section extremely treacherous, but in September, the trail was clear. Regardless it was an area to hike carefully.

At Granite Pass (6263 ft.) the trail moved from the east side of the divide to the west in a series of tight narrow switchbacks. It was easy to pick out the trail ahead where it skirted high above the large forested bowl of Swamp Creek. Mt. Hardy and Methow Pass were also visible from here. Water was available at several places along the trail on this section including a spring at the campsite near the junction with the Snowy Lakes Trail.

Methow Pass (6593 ft.) was a large, flat, open spot that would be good for camping, but there was no water nearby. The trail then fell down, down, down through forested slopes to the Methow River. We had a very nice camp (my favorite of the trip), 4.7 miles from Methow Pass. A bridge crossed the river, and there with several nice campsites on either side. Our campsite, on the north, had a nice firepit and benches for sitting, as well as several flat tent sites. Other hikers were camped on the south side of the bridge.

Day 4: Sept. 9, 2016

Start and Stop Point: Methow River Camp (PCT Mile 2604) to Meadows Campground (PCT Mile 2618)

Distance: 14 Miles

Mountain Passes: 2 passes (Glacier Pass and Grasshopper Pass)

Approx. Elevation Gain: 3525 ft.

Approx. Elevation Loss: 1515 ft.

Region: Okanogan National Forest, Mt. Baker National Forest

This was the most difficult day of our trip-lots of elevation gain and lots of miles hiked.

The trail started out through thick, waist high brush, but it was fairly flat. The sky had cleared overnight and frost lay on the ground. We had to climb up and over a huge downed tree that was blocking the path. Many other trees had been cut, so this one must have fallen recently.

After three miles, we filled up water bottles at the bridge over Brush Creek. On the other side of the bridge, the trail began a serious climb up the mountainside. As we ascended, the valley opened up and beautiful Azurite Peak came into view. This part of the trail was mostly open and would be very warm on a hot day. A climb of 1252 feet over 2.7 miles brought us to forested Glacier Pass (5581 ft.) It was difficult to tell that we were even at a pass.

The trail continued to climb another 1200+ ft. up an open hillside with numerous switchbacks to Grasshopper Pass (6800 ft.) This pass was a great spot to take a break and enjoy the lovely views looking east down the South Fork of Trout Creek.

From here, the trail leveled off continuing on the open rocky east side of the ridge above the bowl of the South Fork of Trout Creek. We passed a campsite with spring water about two miles past Grasshopper Pass. The trail continued on the open hillside below Tatie Peak, then climbed an open ridge above the headwaters of Slate Creek. The trail follows the top of the ridge for about ½ mile. There were magnificent views, not only of the way we had come, but also, of the country to the north, the way we were heading. Continuing on, the trail dropped below the ridge then turned north, dropping off the north side.

Another mile and a half brought us to a road that led to a forest service campground named Meadows where we spent the night. Water was available from a small creek running through the campground. A forest fire had burned through this campground in recent years, so it was very open. Still, it was wonderful to have spacious tent sites, a picnic table, and an outhouse!

Day 5: Sept. 10, 2016

Start and Stop Point: Meadows Campground (PCT Mile 2618) to Jim Pass (PCT Mile 2628)

Distance: 10 miles

Mountain Passes: 5 passes (Hart’s Pass, Buffalo Pass, Windy Pass, Foggy Pass, Jim Pass)

Approx. Elevation Gain: 1697 ft.

Approx. Elevation Loss: 1840 ft.

Region: Okanogan National Forest, Mt. Baker National Forest, Pasayten Wilderness

Rather than returning to the trail, we walked down the dirt road that led to Hart’s Pass where it rejoined the PCT. There were a lot of people camped at Hart’s Pass (6188 ft.).

From Hart’s Pass, we walked a short distance down a dirt road. The PCT takes off to the right from there, and a short distance up the trail, there was a nice spring coming from the hillside, so we filled our water bottles. Angling up the hillside, the trail passed below Slate Peak where Trail Angels waited with all kinds of treats including cookies, M&M’s, ham and cheese croissants and even small bottles of Canadian Club whisky to drink at the border. What a great start to our day!

This was a lovely section of trail, not too steep and offering views of big rolling green hills and large timbered valleys that included strange looking larch trees. The vegetation was beginning to show its fall colors. This was my favorite section of the entire trip! We passed several places where small amounts of water crossed the trail. Buffalo Pass (6557 ft.) came and went, and we didn’t even realize we had crossed a pass. Next up was a dry camp at appropriately named, Windy Pass (6273 ft.). Shortly after, the trail entered the Pasayten Wilderness, crossing to the east side of the ridge.

A large camp with flowing water appeared below Tamarack Peak at PCT Mile 2625. The trail then switchbacked up a low ridge and down the other side a good distance before entering the forest and Foggy Pass (6182 ft.), another pass that didn’t seem like a pass.

Foggy Pass to Jim Pass (6265 ft.) was a short distance, less than a mile and fairly level with occasional views through the trees. Two good sized open camping areas were available at Jim Pass. We chose the second one as it was a little more protected from the wind. There was a firepit but not many options for sitting.

As the sun set, we saw some stormy looking clouds off to the west and hoped they didn’t mean a change in the weather.

Day 6: Sept. 11, 2016

Start and Stop Point: Jim Pass (PCT Mile 2628) to Woody Pass (PCT Mile 2639)

Distance: 11 miles

Mountain Passes: 2 (Holman Pass and Rock Pass)

Approx. Elevation Gain: 2689 ft.

Approx. Elevation Loss: 2599 ft.

Region: Okanogan National Forest, Mt. Baker National Forest, Pasayten Wilderness

We woke to falling snow and wind. It started accumulating on the ground as we debated about going on or returning to Hart’s Pass. The high point of the trip was ahead and almost 1,000 ft. above us. The thought of hiking in a snowstorm, and who knew how much snow, was dispiriting. We decided to wait an hour and reevaluate. It was a cold, wet miserable hour spent sipping coffee huddled under our tarp.

When the hour was up, the storm had abated some and the snow had turned to rain. We unanimously decided to continue, packed up our very wet camp, and started down the muddy, snowy trail. It continued to rain steadily on us all the way to Holman Pass.

From Jim Pass, the next 5 miles of trail dropped off the east side of the ridge, falling over 1300 ft. down the Devil’s Backbone and into a very gloomy dark forest. A good stream of water was available at Shaw Creek, two miles from Jim Pass. Holman Pass (5066 ft.) was a junction of four trails in the dense forest with lots of large flat campsites available but no water in sight.

We climbed steadily north toward Rock Pass (6502 ft.) with water available in a mile or so. After two miles the trail entered a beautiful, huge, grassy hillside with views of Shull Mountain and up the valley toward the pass. The trail wound up the hill, passing a large camping area and easily accessed spring water. This was a good place to fill up because water was scarce ahead. It was a lovely area, and I would have liked to camp there, but it was too early in the day to stop. The rain ended, and we had clear skies for the remainder of the trip.

Hikers coming our way told us there was water beyond this spring but we did not find much. There was a small amount crossing the trail about a mile before Rock Pass, but it would have taken a long time to fill water bottles there.

Traversing Rock Pass, the trail descended a number of switchbacks through steep open scree slopes. A bear was spotted far below but soon disappeared into the brush. At the second right hand switchback, we were able to access a small trickle of water running down the steep hillside. We needed enough to see us through the night and the next day until we reached Hopkins Lake, another 7 miles. It was a short distance off the trail but difficult to reach due to the steepness of the slope.

Washouts on the descent from Rock Pass had badly damaged the trail in the past but all had been repaired and the trail was in good shape.

Hikers told us there was water available just on this side of Woody Pass from melting snowdrifts. We camped near this spot at the bottom of the switchbacks heading up Woody Pass but didn’t find any water. We watched other hikers also searching for water here and didn’t see anyone find it. It was disappointing to get bad information.

It was great to have clear skies, but it also meant much colder temperatures, especially at night. As the sun set, a cold wind blew down on us from Woody Pass.

Day 7: Sept. 12, 2016

Start and Stop Point: Woody Pass (PCT Mile 2639) to Castle Creek Camp (PCT Mile 2650)

Distance: 11 miles,

Mountain Passes: 2 (Hopkins Pass and Castle Pass)

Approx. Elevation Gain: 1121 ft.

Approx. Elevation Loss: 3184 ft.

Region: Okanogan National Forest, Mt. Baker National Forest, Pasayten Wilderness, Manning Provincial Park (British Columbia)

It was a cold morning with frost on the ground and the tent.

We still had to do some climbing to reach Woody Pass (6651 ft.) and passed numerous campsites in the dwarf size trees on the way up. At the pass, the trail crossed to the west side of the ridge. To the west, massive, snowcapped peaks marched across the skyline as far as the eye could see. The trail continued on a narrow path with little elevation gain for a couple of miles through mostly open terrain. In a number of places, we crossed rocky narrow avalanche chutes with steep drop-offs to the west.

Eventually the trail climbed gradually to Lakeview Ridge, the high point of this section of the PCT (7130 ft.) with stunning views of jagged peaks in all directions. The trail remained on top of the ridge for about a mile before dropping down a steep but short chute known as the Devil’s Stairway. This was the beginning of a long 8-mile descent to the border.

We followed a bowl above Hopkins Lake before switchbacking down to a side trail leading to the lake and several campsites, a nice place to take a break and fill up on water. From here, the trail crossed Hopkins Pass (6140 ft.) and entered mostly dense brush and evergreen forest. The alpine and subalpine portion of our trip was over.

Water was available at a number of spots along the trail from Hopkins Pass to Manning Park, and for the first time we did not have to worry about the amount we carried.

Castle Pass (5460 ft.) was a flat spot on the continuous descent north. There was a large flat area for camping but no water available. Continuing on down the trail, it was a little less than 4 miles to the border. We began to see a lot of downed trees across the trail. This slowed us down, but they were all fairly easy to go under or climb over. Until this point, we had only encountered one large downed tree.

The border monument (4258 ft.) finally came into view, and we spent some time relaxing, taking photos, and enjoying the moment with several groups of thru-hikers. Hikers without proper documentation, which includes a passport and a permit from Canada to enter, must turn around and hike back to Hart’s Pass, a distance of 30 miles, to finish their trip. We met a number of people doing this, but I was sure glad that we could cross. Our last campsite at Castle Creek awaited just over the border.

Castle Creek Camp was a large camping area with easy access to water and a stinky but useable outhouse. Food storage lockers, log benches, stumps and even cooking grates were plentiful. By dark, the campsites were all taken. This night and the first night were the only times, we shared our campsite with others.

Day 8: Sept. 13, 2016

Start and Stop Point: Castle Creek Camp to Manning Park Lodge

Distance: 8 miles

Approx. Elevation Gain: 1547 ft.

Approx. Elevation Loss: 1956 ft.

Region: Manning Provincial Park, British Columbia

The last day! I expected the 8 miles to go quickly, but it did not. A nice bridge crossed Castle Creek and headed north through the dense forest. It climbed steadily above the creek with few views. After 4 miles and about 800 ft., we came to a nice campsite before turning away from Castle Creek and crossing a shoulder of Windy Joe Mountain.

The final 4 miles was a continuous descent through dense forest with no views but we could hear traffic on the highway, far below. The trail eventually joined a dirt road that dropped steeply for the next 2 miles. The constant downhill pounding was very tiring for our feet.

Finally the trail left the road at a signed junction of Windy Joe Mountain and the Similkameen River and followed the river on a flat trail for 1.5 miles that seemed like 5 miles to end at the Gibson Pass Road.

From there, it was a quick stroll east along the road to Manning Park Lodge with hot showers, comfy beds and plenty of food!

A Few Notes About Hiking in the North Cascades

This section of the PCT is easy to follow although there are not many trail markers.

It rains a lot! Be prepared for hiking in wet conditions through dense wet brush. We had rain on 3 of our 8 days and woke to snow on the ground one morning. I found that hiking in the rain was not so bad; it was the time in camp that was unpleasant.

An accurate weather forecast is hard to find. The nearest weather stations are far below the ridge tops the trail follows. As a ranger at Hart’s Pass told us, the Cascades make their own weather, and it’s hard to predict.

For such a rainy place, drinking water was often scarce. It was usually in a creek, far below the trail and impossible to reach. Most of our water came from springs and small tributaries crossing the trail.

A camping permit is required if camping in North Cascades National Park. They are available at the Golden West Visitor Center in Stehekin.

Crossing the Canadian border requires a passport and a special entry permit from Canada. Information about obtaining an Application for Entry into Canada via the Pacific Crest Trail can be found at pcta.org.

We encountered a lot of day hikers north of Rainy Pass and on both sides of Hart’s Pass. There were also many, many PCT thru-hikers and section hikers. Do not expect solitude on this hike, at least not in early September.

Happy Trails!